Відео

Awesome vid lake .lake did you measure the piston roundness before and after to see if had wear on major thrust side being piston breaking in bore or is the bore wall and piston break each other in interesting thankyou.peace

🔔😎 25 yrs ago that was my job at the race engine shop. After much coercing I received the latest tech hone stones and nylon bottle brush. Results were +11 hp on our first try on spec 355 SBC circle track engine. This averaged about that on every subsequent engine. I didnt have those great micro gauges, just old tech. Really enjoyed this video information. THANK YOU 🔔😎

Great information. I’ve been using Goodson plateau hone brushes for nearly 20 years now and have found that the resulting smoother upper surface finish reduces the break in period substantially and improves ring seal to the extent that leak down becomes negligible almost immediately after startup. It would be interesting to see the surface detail before and after the plateau hone brush compared to your results here.

Lake does his usual wisdom

Don't buy your gas from Sheetz if you live up north. They're fuel is low tier garbage. If you care about your high performance car or truck go to Shell

Your video cut off at the.....

I remember reading a Mercedes paper from the 80s that showed only the initial cycles caused wear, and it only took like 100 cycles for plastic deformation of those peaks to occur for the rings to fully bed.

The depth of the surface finish and the seal depends on the viscosity of oil you are planning to use. Less surface depth is ideal for lower viscosity oils and vise versa.

Do this using water for oil with motorkote added in the same ratio that project farm used when his test showed no visible damage from running this way.

Can you please make video about Archoil friction modifier R 9100 .

I was taught to seat the rings you accelerate and deaccelerate in first gear 30 to 40 x underload !

m I removing some of the rpk by doing that? and is that a good thing on a bore that only has whatever surface the machine shop achieved with an old school sunnen hone? probably only a single grit hone no less.

Now y’all got me wondering if a burnishing - lapping process, as a extension of the bore preparation, would result in further gains of quality of ring seal and longevity?

I have an older 4stone (2 stone/2 wiper) Sunnen hone, I wonder if those diamond stones needed for this process, are available for it?

The automotive school we wanted to go to but it didn't exist, Total Seal and Lake Speed.

I used to only think about engine oil between the crank and bearings or timing chains and cam lobes and I always missed the oil that lives in the cross hatching. Just thinking about the heat, pressures, and hostile environment that that tiny film of oil is exposed to. And that it's constantly exposed to gasoline. Crazy!

If cylinder walls and valve guides need a little valleys for holding oil, what about rod and main journals? Im sure this was answered 80 years ago. Just another random question. Even if the valleys were less than 20 microns, would that ruin the boundary layer?

Would that Profilometer's resolution be considered at the microscopic level or not quite?

How much clearance change is there from hone to break in?

Does anyone have a cooler name than, Lake Speed ? I bet When he was a baby, his stroller had a five point harness and slicks.

Certain people don't run in engines at all and send them flat out freshly rebuilt after just idling it for a couple minutes to make sure it's working, some people do extremely short run ins but heavily load the engine etc. Whilst I don't believe in either of these methods and prefer a gradually load increasing and longer run in period like you recommend the people that do the opposite don't seem to get punished for it much or at all. You hear the countless and typical stories of "I've been doing it this way since the start of humanity and never had any issues", hard to argue with that sometimes. What gives? What are the risks and drawbacks of running the engine at full tilt right away or doing an extremely short run in only? Obviously for racing series sometimes you have no choice since you want the least mileage and hours on the engine but I'm talking generally speaking and mostly for street usage. What can happen? Burnt rings? Too much wear too quickly that then gets into the oil and circulates? Bore score? Glazing? Longevity - if so why? Do you notice it right away or only many years down the line? Obviously you are going to be running the engine hard "non run-in" so that'll cause it's own issues but what happens afterwards once the hard run in has worn it in very quickly? What are the lasting damages / problems caused by that?

And on to my frustration that there aren't any reputable shops near me that will do what you ask to the standards you want. Like this. They always "know more" you you do. Even if, like me you are a trade pro. I get a block back that looks like it was honed with a brick.

Would you bring able to do a video on piston rings and what type of rings are best for nitrous, boost, na. Also touch upon cylinder wall materials such a plasma arc wire vs a sleeved aluminum block and cast iron block 👍🏻

Blows my mind how manly channels just start rattling off profilometer numbers without throwing their viewers your 90 sec explanation of the tool

So if the rings are smoothing up the cylinder walls… how to the ring surfaces look? And would there be any benefit to using another set of rings once the cylinder walls have the perfect finish?

I'm not a machinist, but your lectures are very interesting, it sparks the desire of learning this trade😍

That's Very Interesting. Cool Video Lake...

The additive you mentioned, to the gas or oil? An additive name?

Which is better .. Chevron or shell?

The Duke says, why don't they just put a magnet inside the oil filter to trap the small metal particles? What did I teach you?

*Imporntant* ? Lol There's an aura of snake oil around Top Tier gasoline. The EPA regulations surrounding LAC are byzantine - undecipherable to the layperson. None of the regulations specify exactly _what_ the additives actually are, only specifying that some are certified with restrictions and some aren't. There are numerous variations in record keeping requirements, measurement ,certifications, testing, and have further variations according to different locations and time of year. This should be a matter of further investigation, given the number of new cars sold with GDI. [edit] Its been reported that 'Top Tier' status was compromised during covid supply chain disruptions. But how could this be verified?

The BMW N57 community is very interested

ya know , Mr. oil is knowledgeable enough to explain all of this on his own.... doing these type of (( visiting the pro's shop)) videos, it comes across like a infomercial.... he takes great logical and reliable info and and gives it a snake oil presentation.... Don't feel to bad, I notice the turbo diesel king of knowledge, G.B. leaning to a low karma style of badmouthing builders or manufacturers , ((by name)) ... Not sure where the idea's originating, but it's not working... now watch some SM racing engines videos.

It’s seems like a very tough coating and works great in a hard running engine but it seems to degrade over the years. The Ford guys pulling their engine after 10 years find chipping at the top of the cylinders.

G'day Lake and also Keith. Lake I have been binge watching a lot of your informative videos. I am lucky to have an older brother who was a mechanic . He started his apprenticeship in the late 60s. He and his petrol head mates all swore by regularly changing oil and filter and yes pre loading the oil filter with fresh clean oil. I wonder who else swears by this Lake 😉 I never thought I would ever see the day when I was told by an expert to PEA in the gas tank. Your famous saying not speculation but fact with science. Best regards to you family friends and viewers all oround the globe.

Have you tested the effect of a torque plates on each side of a V8 simultaneously. It seems unlikely to make a difference but worth testing.

Are the FR9 blocks from Roush Yates coated ?

Valero makes the best fuels!!

Cheap fuel don't run right for my suv. Even thought it's okay to use, but I do notice the difference when I use top tier fuel. My car just runs better. I stay away from arco gastation. Only two fuel station I use and that's shell and chevron. 7:50

Will this work on a 5.9 cummins diesel?

Unless I missed something I do not believe this test is valid. Unless you flushed this engine multiple times after the first test with clean oil you are going to have remnants of the iron powder and wear from the first test. THe second filter has the 5 grams of iron you added plus wear and leftover iron from the first test, invalidating the second test, scientifically.

But these "so called" top tier are full of other junk, detergents, additives etc.

Awsome sauce maannn😅

You guys blather on too much.Why don't you provide 'Top tier' gas brands in the first few minutes ?

Never even thought about it as heat, before.

GOETZE

Thanks for the tip.

You can not trust the quality of fuel at any fueling station anymore..There are 2 ways to deal with this..Always have a Mr. Funnel with you to filter water and junk particles..Then always have a concentrated Fuel Treatment..My Go To is Star Tron Fuel Enzyme 120 gallon formula..Works on Gas and Diesel.....

Great video. Lake, could you please speak about ring break-in, and maybe ring material/alloy, for SumeBore sprayed cylinders?

If my owners manual says 87 octane is recommended, but the oil companies like Shell, Mobil , Chevron, Marathon (all top tier last I looked) puts more detergents in the 93 octane fuel than the 87 octane fuel, I looked it up on there websites should I use 93 or at the least put a tankful of 93 in about every 5 or 6 fill ups ?